Coleridge Way, Minehead, Exmoor National Park
[Main photo: the Coleridge Way feather quill waymarker]
Coleridge Cottage to Lynmouth Pavilion National Park Centre/The Valley of Rocks
This long distance walking path runs between Coleridge Cottage on the edge of the Quantock Hills Area Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Lynmouth Pavilion National Park Centre/The Valley of Rocks on Exmoor.
Coleridge lived in Nether Stowey on the edge of the Quantock Hills (Quantock Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). The Quantocks, West Somerset coast and Exmoor inspired some of his most famous poems. The Coleridge Way was created in 2005 to celebrate this. Originally, the Coleridge Way ran between Porlock (the woman from Porlock) and Nether Stowey (Frost poem). It was extended a decade later to Lynmouth and Poets’ Corner in The Valley of Rocks. The route is marked by feather quills as you follow it. The following is a practical route guide.
How far is the Coleridge Way?
It’s roughly 50 miles or 80 kilometres long. The original route is roughly 34 miles between Nether Stowey and Porlock. The extension is roughly 16 miles. Others have the split at 35 miles and 15 miles. We’ve also seen the total distance recorded at 51 miles or 82 kilometres. In practice, this makes little difference to the walk.
How long will it take to walk?
Clearly, this depends on the speed at which you walk and how far you’re willing to cover in a day. We usually complete a mile in 30 mins on Exmoor and Dartmoor (coastal walking can be slower as some of the cliffs and valleys are chunky). So it took us roughly 25 hours in total to complete the walk.
What’s the walking like?
It’s relatively easy walking. There are some short, sharp climbs/drops and some long, gradual ascents/descents. We walked the route west to east.
Where can I stay?
The Coleridge Way passes through a high number of villages so there are plenty of places in which to stay.
How do I get to the start?
Buses run to Lynton/Lynmouth and Nether Stowey.
How do I get back from the end?
Again, buses run to Lynton/Lynmouth and Nether Stowey.
Is it well signposted?
Yes, follow the feather quills.
Are there shops on the Way?
Yes, there are plenty of shops in the villages on the way.
What kit do I need?
All long distance routes require full kit from waterproofs to warm layers to good boots. Whilst you’re not walking across the Cairngorms, it’s still a 50 mile yomp so go fully kitted out.
The Coleridge Way West to East
The following is a summary route description of the Coleridge Way running from the Lynmouth area (west) to Nether Stowey (east).
We use Ordnance Survey maps and names.
Start
Start at the shelter across the road from the upper parking area in The Valley of Rocks. There are public toilets by this upper parking area and a tearoom a little further down the valley.
Follow the path up to the South West Coast Path. Note that there are very steep drops down to the sea in this area. It’s a well known West Country beauty spot.
Walk east on the South West Coast Path to Lynton. Zig-zag path down to Lynmouth.
Watersmeet
Cross the River Lyn. Follow the north bank of the river through Wester Wood and Horner’s Neck Wood to the National Trust’s Watersmeet. Again, this is a well known West Country beauty spot. There’s a tearoom and gardens on site.
Stay on the north side of the East Lyn River to Brendon (this is a different place to the Brendon Hills across which you’ll walk later).
Walk east along the top of the steep hillside to the County Gate area before passing Malmsmead and Lorna Doone Farm (Doone Valley and Doone Country are south of here).
Continue to Oare and its famous church.
Porlock
Next, head up and across moorland to connect once again with the South West Coast Path above Culbone Wood before diverting across Culbone Hill to Worthy Wood and Porlock Weir.
Walk the edge of the wood to Porlock. You are now at the beginning of the original route. Look out for lines from Kubla Khan.
From Porlock, head to Horner.
Dunkery Hill
Ascend to Weber’s Post and the magnificent view to Horner Wood National Nature Reserve.
Now walk around the side of Dunkery Hill (divert to visit Dunkery Beacon and the highest point in Exmoor National Park) and arc around high ground to Wheddon Cross.
The Brendon Hills
Continue along the spine of the Brendon Hills.
Pass Lype Hill to Luxborough/Kingsbridge and then Roadwater.
Walk through deep valleys to Monksilver on the eastern border of Exmoor National Park.
Leave the national park and head to Sampford Bret briefly to connect with the Macmillan Way West (if you have time available we’d recommend a diversion to Watchet to see The Ancient Mariner (Sculpture)).
Pass over West Somerset Railway with the Quantock Hills in front of you.
The Quantock Hills
Leave Macmillan Way West at the foot of the Quantocks and trend north west to West Quantoxhead.
Walk across the northern section of the Quantocks to Holford (where William Wordsworth once lived at Alfoxton House/Alfoxton Park) and then through woodland to Nether Stowey.
Finish at the National Trust’s Coleridge Cottage. There’s a small tearoom in the property or a pub across the road.
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